![]() ![]() Once, sandpaper came in two colors: black or tan. *To remove mill marks and deep defects, start with 80 grit**For paint in poor condition, 100, followed by primer | Photo by David Prince All About Abrasives Don’t use these so-called “nonloading” papers with water-based finishes, however stearates can prevent the finish from adhering properly. In addition, some papers are treated with zinc stearate, a soapy substance that prevents clogging. Hardwoods and metals can be sanded with closed-coat papers open coats are best for soft woods like pine. (Coarse grits are typically open coat.) In grits finer than 150, where clogging is less of a problem, most sandpapers are “closed coat,” covered completely with abrasive. “Open coat” papers have more space between each abrasive particle and so don’t clog as quickly with dust. The amount of abrasive on a piece of sandpaper affects the way it performs. “Nothing beats a final hand sanding for making sure a surface is smooth.” “A power sander can still leave little swirl marks,” he says. But he always finishes up by hand, with a sheet of sandpaper wrapped around a sanding block. Norm takes full advantage of these improved papers, using his orbital, random-orbit, and belt sanders to shorten the time he spends at the task. With better technology has come a host of specialized abrasive products: sanding belts and discs engineered to withstand the rigors of rapid stock removal without clogging sanding blocks that flex to follow irregular contours plastic-film-backed “papers” so fine they can gently polish away defects without harming furniture’s finish. Deposited onto backings of paper, cloth, or plastic, they are held in place with tenacious plastic resins that can withstand the heat and speed of machine sanding. Nowadays, most sanding abrasives are synthetic materials - aluminum oxide, silicon carbide, and high-tech ceramic - that stay sharp longer and can be produced in microscopic sizes.
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